U-nails or wire clips (to attach the fencing material to the wood)Ĭut (2) 2×8’s about 2 feet long for the sides of the rack.Goat fencing material with 2”x4” or 4″x4″openings between bars – here’s the link to the one we got.2×8’s – length varies on however long you want to make it.Here are the specifics on how to make the best goat feeder For the others, we installed the anti-poop board to keep their rear end far enough away that the poop can’t make it in. If the trough is done well, that will stop the baby poop. The biggest annoyance that goats seem to always do, and then laugh at you afterwards, is pee and poop in the feeder. To remedy this, you have to make the trough narrow and at a slant that they can’t stand on and put the hay close above it so there isn’t space to get between. That knocks a bunch of food on the ground and when their dirty feet touch the food, they don’t like the smell/taste of it anymore. The next problem is that goats, especially babies, climb on and lay in feeders. Now, a little hay waste is inevitable - but you can greatly reduce it by doing this method. Then you have to size the perfect depth of trough to catch the hay and hold pellets and other feed. You have to use the fence material with the perfect size openings to let their noses in and not drop it all the ground. To prevent this, we had to do several things. The first thing they do is drop half the food on the ground and then wouldn’t dream of even smelling it again if it’s touching the dirt. Here she is in all her glory!įifteen years ago we started the fight to be able to feed the goats without having a complete catastrophe. It has taken many iterations and testing to be able overcome all of the issues that arise when goats don’t use the feeder the way I’ve told them to a million times. Many have asked for the specifics for the goat feeder that we’ve perfected over the last 10 years.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |